Brette Harrington’s Solo Serenity

Brette Harrington’s Solo Serenity

The way some climbers are promoting themselves through social media often leaves me feeling that our sport’s soul is in rapid decline—something I know isn’t true, but still can’t help feeling cynical about at times. Thankfully, climbing’s soul is hard to kill, and it still burns bright in people such as Brette Harrington, a climber […]

This Week in Climbing 6-29-2016

This Week in Climbing 6-29-2016

Spending June in the Red River Gorge sounded about as delightful as taking a Bikram’s Yoga class in a tick-infested swamp. Alas, I found myself in Kentucky for about 10 days this month on an actual climbing trip. Prior to leaving, I was dreading the heat, but I assuaged my apprehension by reasoning that, upon […]

Battle of the Boards: Moon, Hang and Campus

Battle of the Boards: Moon, Hang and Campus

Last fall, with a baby on the way, I experienced the urge to “nest.” Only, instead of that urge manifesting itself through cleaning binges, rocking chairs, cribs, and a plethora of cute elephant-themed decorations, I decided to build the most badass home training dojo I could afford. When you’re expecting a baby, and especially once […]

Gym to Crag: The Real Deal

Gym to Crag: The Real Deal

You’ve heard of farm to table, but all across the country, there’s a new artisanal movement taking place among rock climbers. It’s called gym to crag, and depending on your tastes, it either smells delicious or stinks like a 12-month-old roquefort. For better and worse, many climbers these days are introduced to climbing in a […]

Leading a Wide Life, Even in Death

Leading a Wide Life, Even in Death

Because climbing is a part of life, death is a part of climbing. With all these so-called “adventure sports,” death can begin to feel quite common. The longer you climb, the more dead people you know. Yet, somehow, we climbers are just as bad at coping with death as everyone else. When climbers die, especially […]

The Day I Sent Thanatopsis

The Day I Sent Thanatopsis

The moment when everything clicks and I trust my body to take over, the boundary between what I can and cannot do becomes blurred. During fall and spring breaks from Columbia University, I went to the Red River Gorge to work on a route “Thanatopsis.” This climb is located at the “Motherlode,” which, as you probably […]

Daily Stoke: Chris Sharma Does Catalunya’s Best 8c+ Off The Couch

Daily Stoke: Chris Sharma Does Catalunya’s Best 8c+ Off The Couch

Here’s a great little video of Joe Kinder and Chris Sharma, two huge inspirations to me as well as two really good friends, climbing another stunner in Cat. No real story line. No mega-deep plot. Just straight pumped-up climbing porn, captured by none other than the legendary Jorge Visser. “Three weeks, no climbing. Sharma just bangs […]

This Week in Climbing

This Week in Climbing

I live on the Western Slope of Colorado, 25 minutes from Rifle, and about equidistant to at least 1,200 other high-quality sport and trad routes that nobody even bothers checking out simply because they aren’t famous, and there’s often no one there to give beta, which some climbers seem to need with increasing urgency now […]

Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing

Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing

Grade debates are inherently pointless. Arguments about whether something is 5.12d or 5.13a (or whatever) are as unproductive as debating what a specific color looks like. Yes, while each and every color contains an empirical, measurable reality, which is its wavelength, precisely how that wavelength is “seen” by your brain may be different from one […]

Punk in the Gym: Shrivel-Dick in the Lakes

Punk in the Gym: Shrivel-Dick in the Lakes

I normally don’t like running book excerpts since they drop you into the middle of a scene/story, and I’m never able to really follow what the heck is going on. I made an exception with this one, however, because I found it funny and interesting enough to make me want to read more. Plus, the […]