Daily Stoke: Chris Sharma Does Catalunya’s Best 8c+ Off The Couch

Daily Stoke: Chris Sharma Does Catalunya’s Best 8c+ Off The Couch

Here’s a great little video of Joe Kinder and Chris Sharma, two huge inspirations to me as well as two really good friends, climbing another stunner in Cat. No real story line. No mega-deep plot. Just straight pumped-up climbing porn, captured by none other than the legendary Jorge Visser. “Three weeks, no climbing. Sharma just bangs […]

This Week in Climbing

This Week in Climbing

I live on the Western Slope of Colorado, 25 minutes from Rifle, and about equidistant to at least 1,200 other high-quality sport and trad routes that nobody even bothers checking out simply because they aren’t famous, and there’s often no one there to give beta, which some climbers seem to need with increasing urgency now […]

Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing

Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing

Grade debates are inherently pointless. Arguments about whether something is 5.12d or 5.13a (or whatever) are as unproductive as debating what a specific color looks like. Yes, while each and every color contains an empirical, measurable reality, which is its wavelength, precisely how that wavelength is “seen” by your brain may be different from one […]

Punk in the Gym: Shrivel-Dick in the Lakes

Punk in the Gym: Shrivel-Dick in the Lakes

I normally don’t like running book excerpts since they drop you into the middle of a scene/story, and I’m never able to really follow what the heck is going on. I made an exception with this one, however, because I found it funny and interesting enough to make me want to read more. Plus, the […]

Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora (5.14d)

Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora (5.14d)

Sport climbing can be a real bitch. Just when you think you your project on lock down, you punt off the top. Then you spend the next week making worse and worse progress. When you hit rock bottom in that pit of despair and self-loathing, it’s hard to pull yourself out. It’s like a motivational black hole. […]

Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous

Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous

I spent a few seasons living in Yosemite in a Coleman children’s tent that I got from Walmart for $19.98. The packaging had a picture of a crosseyed kindergartner sitting inside and holding a purple dinosaur. I bought the tent because its shape most resembled the iconic Bibler I-Tent, the extreme shelter that often appeared […]

Review: Cypher Codex Climbing Shoe

Review: Cypher Codex Climbing Shoe

    When we were first asked to try out the Cypher Codex climbing shoe, we weren’t too familiar with the Cypher brand.  Based on their website, the U.S. based company makes a variety of climbing shoes, approach shoes and various climbing hardware.  The Codex was designed for steep climbing and thin edges, something I […]